Radishrain
Things pertaining to life: plants and animals, gardening, cooking, food, botany, zoology, farming, ranching, wildlife, genetics, plant breeding, software, media, etc.
Goldie is the groundcherry I've grown that was the sweetest on its first year. The fruit was smaller than Aunt Molly's that year (although it was potentially larger on subsequent years; it may have been a cross, however). The variety is very similar to Aunt Molly's and Ammon Martin's. I got my seeds from Trade Winds Fruit: http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/physalis-pubescens-goldie-ground-cherry-seeds
Queen of Malinalco tomatillo
Offsite articles:
• Dave's Garden
Offsite threads:
• Queen of Malinalco husk tomato, on TomatoJunction.com (13 Dec 2019)
Vendors:
• Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds
• Rooted Organics
• Indie Urban Acres Plant Sale
• The Roughwood Table
• Seed Savers Exchange
• Trade Winds Fruit
*****
I first learned about the Queen of Malinalco tomatillo via Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds' 2020 seed catalog: https://www.rareseeds.com/store/vegetables/new-items-2020/queen-of-malinalco
It sounds like a great tomatillo, with a very unusual shape (they're sort of pepper-shaped). It's said to be like a sweet paste tomato. The fruits grow up to four inches long, and are supposed to be pretty prolific.
heirloom_tomatillo
LibriVox.org is my favorite place to find free, public domain, audiobooks. They are read by volunteers. I've volunteered as a narrator, too. The selection is vast, and steadily growing.
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Pros:
* Pretty fast and functional on a desktop or laptop.
* You can edit the sidebar on the main gardenweb.com page to make the site easier to navigate. (Please do it as often as desired.)
* There is a wide variety of forums.
* It has a decently large user-base.
* It's been around for a long time.
* They currently allow a lot more slack to the users than before Houzz bought them out. A lot of things were once forbidden that no longer are.
* There's a mobile app for Houzz.
* The registration process is fairly fast.
* Although it requires some enabling, you actually can PM users.
* Email notifications for stuff you post works about as expected.
* You can sort of tag people in posts.
* Posts are indexed by Google.
* The data is public (you don't have to be logged in to see it).
* Has lots of round robins. I've never participated in them, but they have more than any other gardening site, as far as I am aware.
* Seed trading happens.
* You can list your website in your profile.
Cons:
* Has a bunch of bugs on my Kindle Fire HD 8 sixth edition with the Silk web browser. It's very difficult to edit stuff you've already written, because it deletes words after you click away from them. Also, if you take too long writing a post, you have to start over. Sometimes it'll bring back words in your post that you've deleted when you submit your post.
* The forum organization is hard for many people to navigate.
* The name of the forum you're looking for might not be intuitive. For instance, if you want the tomato forum, look for 'Growing Tomatoes'.
* If you want people to be able to PM you, you have to enable that feature.
* Email notifications for thread comments don't email you the full thing (it's truncated).
* Email notifications for PMs don't tell you what they said.
* It's kind of hard to find past PMs if there are no PMs in your recent notification list.
* Tagging people in posts is difficult to do properly.
* A lot of users are confused about how to use the site.
* The mobile app really isn't usable for regular Gardenweb use, but it's fine for participating in threads you've recently posted in.
* There's no dedicated watermelon forum.
* There's no dedicated sweet pepper forum.
* Quoting other users isn't super easy.
* There are neither mini-profiles nor signatures.
Neutral factors:
* It has a clean and simple professional look and feel. Nothing too overwhelming about the color scheme or fonts.
* Threads are not threaded. I consider this a con, but most forums these days aren't threaded.
* Avatars in threads are tiny.
* You can mask your username with a changeable name.
* Has Ideabooks (which are basically like personal posts that show up on your profile; they can be public or private, and you can invite people to them)
* The larger Houzz community is pretty commercial-oriented.
* Some forums can have a strong (and historically competitive) Q/A focus.
* Some people Tomato enthusiasts who used Gardenweb were disaffected with it (a while before Houzz took over), and started a new site called Tomatoville, which became very popular (Tomatoville is currently scheduled to go down, however).
* Advertising on Gardenweb used to be super annoying before Houzz took over.
* Page loads became faster after Houzz took over.
* When Houzz took over, lots of people complained, and more people left (but it seems to have been building back up). I think the navigation changes were probably the primary issue, but I could be wrong.
* Pretty fast and functional on a desktop or laptop.
* You can edit the sidebar on the main gardenweb.com page to make the site easier to navigate. (Please do it as often as desired.)
* There is a wide variety of forums.
* It has a decently large user-base.
* It's been around for a long time.
* They currently allow a lot more slack to the users than before Houzz bought them out. A lot of things were once forbidden that no longer are.
* There's a mobile app for Houzz.
* The registration process is fairly fast.
* Although it requires some enabling, you actually can PM users.
* Email notifications for stuff you post works about as expected.
* You can sort of tag people in posts.
* Posts are indexed by Google.
* The data is public (you don't have to be logged in to see it).
* Has lots of round robins. I've never participated in them, but they have more than any other gardening site, as far as I am aware.
* Seed trading happens.
* You can list your website in your profile.
Cons:
* Has a bunch of bugs on my Kindle Fire HD 8 sixth edition with the Silk web browser. It's very difficult to edit stuff you've already written, because it deletes words after you click away from them. Also, if you take too long writing a post, you have to start over. Sometimes it'll bring back words in your post that you've deleted when you submit your post.
* The forum organization is hard for many people to navigate.
* The name of the forum you're looking for might not be intuitive. For instance, if you want the tomato forum, look for 'Growing Tomatoes'.
* If you want people to be able to PM you, you have to enable that feature.
* Email notifications for thread comments don't email you the full thing (it's truncated).
* Email notifications for PMs don't tell you what they said.
* It's kind of hard to find past PMs if there are no PMs in your recent notification list.
* Tagging people in posts is difficult to do properly.
* A lot of users are confused about how to use the site.
* The mobile app really isn't usable for regular Gardenweb use, but it's fine for participating in threads you've recently posted in.
* There's no dedicated watermelon forum.
* There's no dedicated sweet pepper forum.
* Quoting other users isn't super easy.
* There are neither mini-profiles nor signatures.
Neutral factors:
* It has a clean and simple professional look and feel. Nothing too overwhelming about the color scheme or fonts.
* Threads are not threaded. I consider this a con, but most forums these days aren't threaded.
* Avatars in threads are tiny.
* You can mask your username with a changeable name.
* Has Ideabooks (which are basically like personal posts that show up on your profile; they can be public or private, and you can invite people to them)
* The larger Houzz community is pretty commercial-oriented.
* Some forums can have a strong (and historically competitive) Q/A focus.
* Some people Tomato enthusiasts who used Gardenweb were disaffected with it (a while before Houzz took over), and started a new site called Tomatoville, which became very popular (Tomatoville is currently scheduled to go down, however).
* Advertising on Gardenweb used to be super annoying before Houzz took over.
* Page loads became faster after Houzz took over.
* When Houzz took over, lots of people complained, and more people left (but it seems to have been building back up). I think the navigation changes were probably the primary issue, but I could be wrong.
Nabble just lets you email each other instead of doing private messaging. If you don't want someone to know your email, just don't PM them and don't reply to their messages via email. It's as simple as that. If you PM someone, it will give them your email address.
Moderators cannot read, nor moderate your emails.
Administrators can see your email address without receiving an email from you (but regular moderators cannot).
Moderators cannot read, nor moderate your emails.
Administrators can see your email address without receiving an email from you (but regular moderators cannot).
On 31 Dec 2019, Tomatoville is scheduled to go down forever. Mischka announced this yesterday. It looks likely that the user named Rajun_Gardener has acquired the domain (but I'm uncertain if tomatoville.com was the domain in consideration). It is unclear what Rajun_Gardener plans to do with the domain. It is also unclear how much of Tomatoville.com's data Mischka will publicly archive.
On the other hand, there are plenty of other online gardening communities. Check out this list (please tell me any I'm missing): http://www.growspice.com/Gardening-communities-td781.html
On the other hand, there are plenty of other online gardening communities. Check out this list (please tell me any I'm missing): http://www.growspice.com/Gardening-communities-td781.html
Political threads and posts are forbidden.
• (Exceptions are noted far below.)Q/A
Q: Will I ban you for it?
A: Probably not. I'll likely just delete or edit your post. Alternatively, I may just reply to it with a warning, and/or lock it. If whether it's political is a gray area, it's probably okay to post, as long as it's nice. I mean, it's okay to talk about things that are political issues if you're not talking about them in a political way (for instance, remarking on how it's hotter these days than it used to be is fine, while saying people are stupid because they don't believe in climate change is not, as that's an argument that is being used politically; plus, it's an insult, and you're not allowed to insult people here).
Q: What if it's not controversial?
A: I might not care. The purpose of forbidding political posts is to help forum members be peaceful and happy. Please don't be offended if I delete or edit your post.
Q: Should I get angry at people who post political stuff?
A: No. Just tell them the rules and/or report the post. Be friendly.
Q: What if it's not political in my opinion, but other people think it is?
A: Then, at moderator/administrator discretion, it will probably be treated the same as if it were political.
Exceptions
• Administrators (not moderators) can post political posts, if desired. You are free to reply politically to administrator posts about politics, if they're not locked (but you must still follow the rules). Do not reference political posts from other threads, unless you're an administrator, or unless you're a moderator doing it for non-political moderation purposes.• It's okay to talk about national holidays, political or not.
Carolina Cross #183 '17 (direct-seeded)
King Winter '17'19
Navajo Winter (direct-seeded)
Navajo Red
Santo Domingo Brown Seeded
Santo Domingo Dark Green
Santo Domingo Winter
Weeks NC Giant '19
Winter Queen
Wintermelon
watermelon_growlist
King Winter '17'19
Navajo Winter (direct-seeded)
Navajo Red
Santo Domingo Brown Seeded
Santo Domingo Dark Green
Santo Domingo Winter
Weeks NC Giant '19
Winter Queen
Wintermelon
watermelon_growlist
EDIT: For my actual growlist, for 2021, see this link:
https://www.tomatojunction.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=2349&start=40
If an item is followed by a *, that means I intend to grow multiple plants of that kind of tomato. Stick, Napoli and its crosses, and Frittata Kitchen are intended to be the vast majority of the plants.
Long-term goals: Breed lots of prolific tomatoes of various sizes (large cherry to giant) with pompom foliage, durable fruits, excellent taste, decent acidity (for canning/flavor), great nutrition, heat/cold/drought-tolerance, great culinary qualities, and such. I plan to grow plenty of tomatoes with pompom foliage until they're all like that (via natural crosses), almost (growing only pompom hybrids rather than the original Stick, once pompom hybrids breed).
Short-term goal: in 2021, plant a lot of Napoli, Napoli crosses, Frittata Kitchen, and Stick plants. Hope for lots of natural crosses between them and other tomatoes. When Stick crosses start surfacing, don't grow the original Stick anymore; just grow the crosses with pompom foliage (but grow lots of them); every time they cross, do the same, if it still requires further breeding for productivity, fruit-size and branching (I want it to produce plenty of branches).
Add Epsom salt, zinc, copper, and iron to all the growing spots you have the minerals to do it on.
List:
* Amana Orange x 3 (each from a different fruit)
* Atkinson
* Aunt Ginny's Purple
* Black Cherry
* Black Bear
* Black Beauty
* Blush
* BSX x 4
* Carbon x 3 (put in the open—not somewhere that takes a while to get to)
* Cherokee Carbon F1
* Cherokee Chocolate
* Cherokee Yellow
* Cherokee Yellow Perfection Peach
* Chocolate Chestnut (give wood ash)
* Church (I have two sources)
* Cold Black Brandy
* Cosmic Eclipse
* Costoluto Florentino
* Costoluto Genovese (I have two sources)
* Dinner Plate
* Egg Yolk
* Flaming Burst
* Frittata Kitchen x 2
* Galapagos Island (just one; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Garden Leader Monster
* Girl Girl's Weird Thing x 2 (each from a different source)
* Great White
* Isis Candy x 2
* Insurance_2 (give a lot of space; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Japanese Black Trifele x 2
* Marion
* Matina (from 2019's saved seeds; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Matt's Hornet
* Mexican Yellow
* Mexican Yellow cross F2 (try for yellow fruit; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow cross F3 (grow where the muskmelons are)
* Napoli x 6 (3 from 2019 and 3 from 2020)
* Napoli cross A x 6 (2 from each of three fruits)
* Napoli cross B x 3 (each from a different fruit)
* Neves Azorean Red
* Orange Jazz
* Pakenham Pear
* Picnic_2 x 2
* Pink Bumble Bee
* Purple Calabash cross F2 (the cross may be with Costoluto Genovese)
* Purple Russian
* Red Stuffer
* Sprite (for the flower garden)
* Stick x 12
* Stump of the World
* SunChocola F3
* SunCitron F2
* SunDolce F2
* SunGarnet F2
* SunGold F1
* Sun Green Improved F1
* SunLemon F2
* SunOrange F2
* SunPeach F2
* Sweet Ozark Orange
* Terhune
Here are some of them that I don't plan to grow in the main group (but rather on the side or in a different place):
* Amana Orange x 3
* Black Cherry
* Cherokee Yellow Perfection Peach
* Egg Yolk
* Galapagos Island (just one; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Garden Leader Monster
* Insurance_2 (give a lot of space; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Matina (from 2019's saved seeds; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow
* Mexican Yellow cross F2 (try for yellow fruit; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow cross F3 (grow where the muskmelons are)
* Pakenham Pear
* Sprite (for the flower garden)
* SunChocola F2
* SunChocola F3
* SunCitron F2
* SunGarnet F2
* SunGold F1
* Sun Green Improved F1
* SunLemon F2
* SunOrange F2
* SunPeach F2
tomato_growlist
tomato_growlist_2021
2021_
https://www.tomatojunction.com/viewtopic.php?f=65&t=2349&start=40
If an item is followed by a *, that means I intend to grow multiple plants of that kind of tomato. Stick, Napoli and its crosses, and Frittata Kitchen are intended to be the vast majority of the plants.
Long-term goals: Breed lots of prolific tomatoes of various sizes (large cherry to giant) with pompom foliage, durable fruits, excellent taste, decent acidity (for canning/flavor), great nutrition, heat/cold/drought-tolerance, great culinary qualities, and such. I plan to grow plenty of tomatoes with pompom foliage until they're all like that (via natural crosses), almost (growing only pompom hybrids rather than the original Stick, once pompom hybrids breed).
Short-term goal: in 2021, plant a lot of Napoli, Napoli crosses, Frittata Kitchen, and Stick plants. Hope for lots of natural crosses between them and other tomatoes. When Stick crosses start surfacing, don't grow the original Stick anymore; just grow the crosses with pompom foliage (but grow lots of them); every time they cross, do the same, if it still requires further breeding for productivity, fruit-size and branching (I want it to produce plenty of branches).
Add Epsom salt, zinc, copper, and iron to all the growing spots you have the minerals to do it on.
List:
* Amana Orange x 3 (each from a different fruit)
* Atkinson
* Aunt Ginny's Purple
* Black Cherry
* Black Bear
* Black Beauty
* Blush
* BSX x 4
* Carbon x 3 (put in the open—not somewhere that takes a while to get to)
* Cherokee Carbon F1
* Cherokee Chocolate
* Cherokee Yellow
* Cherokee Yellow Perfection Peach
* Chocolate Chestnut (give wood ash)
* Church (I have two sources)
* Cold Black Brandy
* Cosmic Eclipse
* Costoluto Florentino
* Costoluto Genovese (I have two sources)
* Dinner Plate
* Egg Yolk
* Flaming Burst
* Frittata Kitchen x 2
* Galapagos Island (just one; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Garden Leader Monster
* Girl Girl's Weird Thing x 2 (each from a different source)
* Great White
* Isis Candy x 2
* Insurance_2 (give a lot of space; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Japanese Black Trifele x 2
* Marion
* Matina (from 2019's saved seeds; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Matt's Hornet
* Mexican Yellow
* Mexican Yellow cross F2 (try for yellow fruit; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow cross F3 (grow where the muskmelons are)
* Napoli x 6 (3 from 2019 and 3 from 2020)
* Napoli cross A x 6 (2 from each of three fruits)
* Napoli cross B x 3 (each from a different fruit)
* Neves Azorean Red
* Orange Jazz
* Pakenham Pear
* Picnic_2 x 2
* Pink Bumble Bee
* Purple Calabash cross F2 (the cross may be with Costoluto Genovese)
* Purple Russian
* Red Stuffer
* Sprite (for the flower garden)
* Stick x 12
* Stump of the World
* SunChocola F3
* SunCitron F2
* SunDolce F2
* SunGarnet F2
* SunGold F1
* Sun Green Improved F1
* SunLemon F2
* SunOrange F2
* SunPeach F2
* Sweet Ozark Orange
* Terhune
Here are some of them that I don't plan to grow in the main group (but rather on the side or in a different place):
* Amana Orange x 3
* Black Cherry
* Cherokee Yellow Perfection Peach
* Egg Yolk
* Galapagos Island (just one; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Garden Leader Monster
* Insurance_2 (give a lot of space; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Matina (from 2019's saved seeds; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow
* Mexican Yellow cross F2 (try for yellow fruit; grow where the muskmelons are)
* Mexican Yellow cross F3 (grow where the muskmelons are)
* Pakenham Pear
* Sprite (for the flower garden)
* SunChocola F2
* SunChocola F3
* SunCitron F2
* SunGarnet F2
* SunGold F1
* Sun Green Improved F1
* SunLemon F2
* SunOrange F2
* SunPeach F2
tomato_growlist
tomato_growlist_2021
2021_
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