Radishrain

foliar.growspice.com

This thread is for declaring (and experimenting with) foliar spray application rates of fertilizer, minerals, and such, since they can be pretty hard to find or convert, sometimes. Sources for information are below. Feel free to reply with more information, if you know it! My pump sprayer is 51oz (although it's advertised as 48oz, though it has a marker at the 48 point); so, I'll try to give rates for the standard gallon of water, as well as for 51oz (fluid ounces) of water. If percentages are given, there's a conversion guide below.

Warnings: These measurements are untested, unless mentioned otherwise (and then only anecdotally). They may or may not be accurate. You use this information at your own risk, for all items, tested or not. Make sure to do foliar sprays when the sun isn't out. Wear a mask/goggles for some kinds, for safety reasons, and don't spray when other people are close to you. Just because I list something that doesn't mean I recommend it. Some of these things you obviously wouldn't want to put in a pump sprayer if you value it: e.g. anything that doesn't completely dissolve, as well as cow dung and probably other natural things .

• Ammonium sulfate (21N-0P-0K-24S): 1-3tbsp per gallon
• Ascorbic acid (Not sure.)
• Calcium acetate (Foliar sprays on rice are said to be helpful when the ozone is higher, and usable on many garden plants. Is said to be able to be used in larger amounts than calcium chloride, as a foliar spray, so if you use the same amount, you're probably safe. You can make it at home with vinegar and something containing calcium carbonate, such as limestone, or else slaked calcium oxide. See sources 14, 15, and 18 for ideas on application rates. Note that raw eggshells only partially dissolve in vinegar.)
• Calcium ascorbate (Not sure.)
• Calcium chloride (Small amounts are needed to avoid burning, I've read.) See source 18 for rates mentioned in an experiment and the results.
• Calcium nitrate (15.5N-0P-0K-19Ca): 2-4tbsp per gallon (not tested); 1tbsp per 51oz (tested; works great, and can be done once a week or two, although if you do it too many weeks in a row, you might get issues; 2tbsp is enough to slightly burn an outdoor grapevine, though)
• Citric acid (Not sure.)
• Copper sulfate <hydrous> (25.47Cu-38.47S): 2%, or 5.12 tbsp per gallon, twice a season, for deficient wheat (not tested; sounds like a lot; be careful, because too much copper can stop plant roots from growing); 2.0318 tbsp per 51 oz twice a year (not tested); for tomatoes, as a fungicide, they say to use 4 teaspoons per gallon (not tested) every 7-10 days, or 1.5936 teaspoons per 51oz
• Cow dung (fermented): Not sure. See source 16.
• Dissolved eggshells: See source 17.
• Epsom salt (9.8Mg-13S): 2tbsp per gallon once a month, for most plants (not tested); 2.39 teaspoons per 51oz (not tested)
• Fish emulsion: 1-3tbsp per gallon; 1.195-3.585 teaspoons per 51oz (not tested). See source 19. I'm not sure that you can use this in a pump sprayer.
• Greenway Biotech's Pepper and Herb Fertilizer (11N-11P-40K plus micronutrients): 2.5 grams or ~0.5 tablespoons per gallon (not tested); ~0.5975 teaspoons per 51oz (not tested); see source #22 for precautions (water after application, and do not apply when it's over 65 degrees F. outside).
• Greenway Biotech's Tomato Fertilizer (4N-18P-38K plus micronutrients): 2.5 grams, or ~0.5 tablespoons per gallon (not tested); ~0.5975 teaspoons per 51oz (not tested); the source #21 for precautions (water after application, and do not apply when it's over 65 degrees F. outside).
• Iron sulfate heptahydrate (20Fe-12S): 1-2tbsp per gallon (not tested); 1.195-2.39 teaspoons per 51oz (not tested).
• Manganese sulfate (31Mn-18S): ¼ to ½ teaspoon per gallon (not tested); I burned plants badly when I tried a foliar spray in 2015, but I probably used too much.
• Miracle Gro All-purpose water-soluble fertilizer (24N-8P-16K-0.02B-?Cl-0.07Cu-?EDTA-0.15Fe-0.05Mn-0.0005Mo-?Na-?S-0.06Zn): 1 level tbsp per gallon every one to two weeks (not tested); 1 semi-heaping teaspoon (1.195 teaspoons, or 0.3984 tablespoons) per 51oz (tested); only for outdoor foliar sprays, according to the instructions on the box. Warning: The small end of the scoop is only ½ teaspoon, and the large end is 1½ tablespoons (don't expect a teaspoon and a tablespoon).
• Monoammonium phosphate (12-61-0): 1-3tbsp per gallon (not tested); 1.195-3.585 teaspoons (not tested)
• Monopotassium phosphate (0-52-34): 2-3 tbsp per gallon; 0.7968-1.1952 tbsp (2.39-3.586 teaspoons) per 51oz
• Potassium nitrate (13-0-44): 9.6 tbsp per gallon (untested; needs to be agitated or something before spraying to mix properly with the water; in theory, using the same ratio as potassium sulfate should get you a similar amount of potassium; they're probably adding more for increased benefit of extra nitrogen balanced with the potassium); for mango trees, use a 1% to 4% (you may especially want to read the sources about this one as there are special instructions).
• Potassium sulfate (0N-0P-53K-17S): 2-3 tbsp per gallon; 0.7968-1.1952 tbsp (2.39-3.586 teaspoons) per 51oz. I've tested a solution, but I don't remember if it was according to these measurements offhand. I probably mentioned how much I used on my growlog.
• Sea minerals: 1 teaspoon per gallon (0.13%). It would clog a pump sprayer eventually. See source 20 for more information.
• Seawater: Assuming the seawater is 3.5% sea minerals . . . I'm not sure the rate. It would probably clog a pump sprayer eventually. Should be essentially the same thing as sea minerals, with added beneficial bacteria (and possibly harmful pollution).
• Urea (46-0-0): 0.5% to 2% solution.
• Wood ash and sour milk: Not sure. See source 16.
• Zinc sulfate monohydrate (16.5S-35.5Zn): Foliar spray not recommended for all kinds of water (since it reacts instantly with at least my tapwater to form a solid white rock-like substance). 1-3tbsp per gallon (not tested); 1.195-3.585 teaspoons (not tested)


Percentage guide:
Note: 1 tablespoon is 0.0039 gallons. There are 256 tablespoons in one gallon. 1 teaspoon is 0.0013 gallons. There are 768 teaspoons in one gallon. 1 teaspoon is 0.167oz. 1 tablespoon is 0.5oz.

Teaspoons per gallon to percentage:

• ⅛ teaspoon per gallon is 0.0162%.
• ¼ teaspoon per gallon is 0.0325%.
• ½ teaspoon per gallon is 0.065%.
• 1 teaspoon per gallon is 0.13%.
• 2 teaspoons per gallon is 0.26%.

Tablespoons per gallon to percentage:

• 1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons) per gallon is 0.390625%.
• 2 tablespoons (⅛ cup) per gallon is 0.78125%.
• 3 tablespoons per gallon is 1.171875%.
• 4 tablespoons (¼ cup) per gallon is 1.5625%.
• 5 tablespoons per gallon is 1.953125%.
• 5⅓ tablespoons (⅓ cup) per gallon is 2.08_3% (by _3 I mean 3 repeating).
• 6 tablespoons per gallon is 2.34375%.
• 7 tablespoons per gallon is 2.734375%.
• 8 tablespoons (½ cup) per gallon is 3.125%.
• 9 tablespoons per gallon is 3.515625%.
• 10 tablespoons per gallon is 3.90625%.
• 10⅔ tablespoons (⅔ cup) per gallon is 4.1_6%
• 11 tablespoons per gallon is 4.2996875%.
• 12 tablespoons (¾ cup) per gallon is 4.6875%.
• 13 tablespoons per gallon is 5.078125%.
• 14 tablespoons per gallon is 5.46875%.
• 15 tablespoons per gallon is 5.859375%.
• 16 tablespoons (1 cup) per gallon is 6.25%.

Percentage to tablespoons per gallon:

• 0.05% is 0.128 tablespoons per gallon.
• 0.1% is 0.256 tablespoons per gallon.
• 0.2% is 0.512 tablespoons per gallon.
• 0.3% is 0.768 tablespoons per gallon.
• 0.4% is 1.024 tablespoons per gallon.
• 0.5% is 1.28 tablespoons per gallon.
• 1% is 2.56 tablespoons per gallon.
• 1.5% is 3.84 tablespoons per gallon.
• 2% is 5.12 tablespoons per gallon.
• 2.5% is 6.4 tablespoons per gallon.
• 3% is 7.68 tablespoons per gallon.
• 3.5% is 8.96 tablespoons per gallon.
• 4% is 10.24 tablespoons per gallon.
• 4.5% is 11.52 tablespoons per gallon.
• 5% is 12.8 tablespoons per gallon.
• 5.5% is 14.08 tablespoons per gallon.
• 6% is 15.36 tablespoons per gallon.
• 6.5% is 16.64 tablespoons per gallon.
• 7% is 17.92 tablespoons per gallon.
• 7.5% is 19.2 tablespoons per gallon.
• 8% is 20.48 tablespoons per gallon.
• 8.5% is 21.76 tablespoons per gallon.
• 9% is 23.04 tablespoons per gallon.
• 9.5% is 24.32 tablespoons per gallon.
• 10% is 25.6 tablespoons per gallon.

For teaspoons/tablespoons per 51oz:

Note: 1 teaspoon is 0.167oz. 1 tablespoon is 0.5oz. 51oz is 305.38922155688622 teaspoons. 51oz is 102 tablespoons.

Teaspoons per 51oz to percentage:

• ⅛ teaspoon per 51oz is 0.04084967320261%.
• ¼ teaspoon per 51oz is 0.08169934640522%.
• ½ teaspoon per 51oz is 0.16339869281045%.
• 1 teaspoon per 51oz is 0.32679738562091%.
• 2 teaspoons per 51oz is 0.65359477124183%.

Tablespoons per 51oz to percentage:

• 1 tablespoon per 51oz is 0.98039215686274%.
• 2 tablespoons (⅛ cup) per 51oz is 1.96078431372549%.
• 3 tablespoons per 51oz is 2.94117647058823%.
• 4 tablespoons (¼ cup) per 51oz is 3.92156862745098%.
• 5 tablespoons per 51oz is 4.90196078431372%.
• 5⅓ tablespoons (⅓ cup) per 51oz is 5.22875816993464%.
• 6 tablespoons per 51oz is 5.88235294117647%.
• 7 tablespoons per 51oz is 6.86274509803921%.
• 8 tablespoons (½ cup) per 51oz is 7.84313725490196%.
• 9 tablespoons per 51oz is 8.82352941176470%.
• 10 tablespoons per 51oz is 9.80392156862745%.
• 10⅔ tablespoons (⅔ cup) per gallon is 10.45751633986928%.

Percentage to tablespoons per 51oz:

• 0.5% is 0.51 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 1% is 1.02 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 1.5% is 1.53 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 2% is 2.04 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 2.5% is 2.55 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 3% is 3.06 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 3.5% is 3.57 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 4% is 4.08 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 4.5% is 4.59 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 5% is 5.1 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 5.5% is 5.61 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 6% is 6.12 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 6.5% is 6.63 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 7% is 7.14 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 7.5% is 7.65 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 8% is 8.16 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 8.5% is 8.67 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 9% is 9.18 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 9.5% is 9.69 tablespoons per 51oz.
• 10% is 10.2 tablespoons per 51oz.

Sources:
1. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/products/calcium-nitrate
2. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/can-put-miraclegro-purpose-plant-food-leaves-75878.html
3. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/epsom-salt-gardening.htm#:~:text=Most%20plants%20can%20be%20misted,of%20water%20once%20a%20month.&text=With%20roses%2C%20you%20can%20apply,and%20then%20again%20after%20flowering.
4. https://www.publish.csiro.au/an/EA9800717
5. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/products/ferrous-sulfate
6. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/products/zinc-sulfate
7. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/products/monoammonium-phosphate-12-61-0-100-water-soluble
8. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/products/potassium-sulfate-0-0-53
9. https://www.ehow.com/how_7336193_apply-potassium-nitrate-mango-trees.html
10. http://www.brixbounty.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Foliar-Sprays-Soil-Nutrition-2016.pdf
11. https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/aab.12653
12. https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/PetitionCalciumAcetate.pdf
13. https://growingorganic.com/diy-guide/how-to-make-water-soluble-calcium-at-home/
14. https://www.ourfigs.com/forum/figs-home/456045-do-we-have-any-chemists-among-us-or-making-water-soluble-calcium-at-home
15. https://www.agrian.com/pdfs/current/10_Calcium_Solution_Label3.pdf16. https://file.scirp.org/Html/3-2170238_69571.htm
17. https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/calcium-fertilizer.htm
18. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/279296811_Foliar_application_of_calcium_chloride_and_borax_influences_plant_growth_yield_and_quality_of_tomato_Lycopersicon_esculentum_Mill_fruit
19. https://www.trees.com/gardening-and-landscaping/fish-emulsion-fertilizer#:~:text=For%20both%20homemade%20and%20commercially,to%20every%20gallon%20of%20water.
20. https://seaagri.com/foliar-application/
21. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/collections/fertilizers/products/tomato-fertilizer
22. https://www.greenwaybiotech.com/collections/fertilizers/products/pepper-herb-fertilizer

fertilizer_
foliar_spray

So, I saw a video that portrayed someone putting black pepper on a medium wound to stop it from bleeding.

I cut myself, today (on a pineapple can while washing it); it was bleeding a surprising amount for not being a major cut. So, I decided to try the black pepper. I sprinkled it on. It didn't work. So, I rubbed it around. It didn't work. It was bleeding as much as ever both times. So, eventually I just put toilet paper on it.

So, I must conclude that this trick does not work for everyone every time.

FYI: I'm not on blood thinners.

FYI: Sometimes I wash cans to save for things like games.

https://phys.org/news/2021-06-discovery-human-cells-rna-sequences.html

This article is about how RNA can be used to repair or rewrite DNA. They don't actually talk about genetic engineering directly (hence how I asked the subject as a question).

So, do we need to worry about those mRNA vaccines, or is that trigger not accessed with them? I personally had the two Moderna COVID-19 shots, and I've been very happy with the results, so far.

https://medicalxpress.com/news/2021-06-vitamin-d-deficiency-addiction-opioids.html

Vitamin D also reduces opioid addiction (as well as addiction to ultraviolet light).

I've invented a system to help keep track of which plants are which, and where they came from.

You don't have to worry about what my IDs or names mean--but if you're curious, here you go.

If you wish to use this system yourself, and are new to it, feel free to consult with me, if you want help.

Note: I already described a similar system a while back (in the Brandy Boy cross thread on TomatoJunction.com, probably); this system is the updated/reworked version (and should be used instead).

So, here's how the modulation works:

A is the first plant.

B is the first-named child of A.

C is the first-named child of B, and so on.

Also, AA is the child of Z, BA is the child of AZ, AAA is the child of ZZ, and so on (should you breed your plants for so many generations).

A0 is the first-named sibling of A. (They need not be planted in the same year, necessarily.)

A1 is the second-named sibling of A.

A2 is the third-named sibling of A, and so forth.

A2A is the first-named child of A2.

A2B is the first-named child of A2A, and so forth.

A2A0 is the first-named sibling of A2A.

A2A1 is the second-named sibling of A2A, and so forth.

If you wish to distinguish between fruits of the same plant, too, optionally put #1 for the first-reckoned fruit (ideally, but not necessarily the first one to set), #2 for the second-reckoned, and so forth (but for more persistent data there, you'll want to take notes on which fruit a certain plant came from in your records).

That's the basic idea. However, you should take notes about each plant. In the notes for plant A (if not the notes for the project itself), you should mention any special rules that you're using in that project.

Here are some additional examples of how the system could be used:

To track unknown varieties, you might consider this:

u + last two digits of the current year + _ + the tracking code as described above: e.g. u21_A, u21_A0, u21_A1, etc.

Note that u21_B is the child of u21_A (you don’t change it to u22--remember, you know its parent; you only do the current year when you don’t know its parent).

To track volunteers, you could use the same system, except use v instead of u: e.g. v21_C6A10 is the eleventh-named sibling of v21_C6A, which is the child of v21_C6, which is the seventh-named sibling of v21_C, which is the child of v21_B, which is the child of v21_A, which was the first-named volunteer grown in 2021.

Or, if you want to track all of your plants like this, regardless of what they are, use a p instead of a u or v: e.g. p21_A.

Or, you can make up other stuff (like since my watermelons are all potentially crosses, I'm referring to this year's watermelons as such as wm21_A through whatever).

Volunteers, unknown plant breeds, and tracking all plants aside, this system is generally used one of two ways:

1. Pick a name for the starting plant (We’ll use Pearler as an example; this is a code name for a breeding project). Add _A to the end; so, the starting plant is Pearler_A. The first Sibling would be Pearler_A0, and so forth. Note that these names followed by underscores do not only apply to plants with only the same breeds in their lineage. To indicate a new cross, you can put F1 after the name: e.g. MyCross_D4 F1. You can also indicate old crosses, too (whether or not they happened before you named it): e.g. Insurance_A F3, Insurance_B F4, Insurance_B0 F4, etc. If it crosses again, start over at F1 (and make notes of what cross happened for reference).

If you wish to refer to the whole project, include the underscore, but no ID after it: e.g. Pearler_ (So, Pearler doesn't mean anything without an underscore, and it doesn't refer to your tomatoes, unless you happen to name one that when it's a finished variety.) You can also do this to refer to any member of the project, if you don't remember, or don't want to use, the full name; if you're doing that with saved seeds, replace the underscore with a hyphen (e.g. Pearler-).

There's no requirement to include every single sibling in the project, if you wish one or more to be separate. You'll note that I didn't call my Mexican Yellow cross F3 that I'm growing this year Insurance_A0, even though I could have.

When you save seeds, label it with the same name as the plant that it came from, and exchange the underscore for a hyphen; then after you grow it, modulate it for each plant and replace the hyphen with an underscore (you only modulate it after the seeds grow)

If you distribute seeds, you should ensure that the underscore remains, and that the recipient doesn't modulate it with future growouts; the recipient continue to use that name received instead of modulating it for each plant (if they wish to modulate it, they would start over by doing Pearler-A0_A for their first-named plant, Pearler-A0_B for its first-named child, Pearler-A0_B0 for the first-named sibling of Pearler-A0_B, and so on--this is so it doesn't interfere with your own project).

2. If you already have a named variety (e.g. Brandywine), or are using a form of hybrid notation (e.g. Amana Orange x Black Cherry F1), then just note the ID name in parentheses or something: e.g. Brandywine (G64B2A0), and Amana Orange x Black Cherry F1 (A3). With this method, when I start with A, that generally means it's the first plant from that seed source that I've grown (regardless of whether I've grown the same variety from another seed source before). If I need to distinguish between two separate sources, I can do such as this SomeTomato (1A) and SomeTomato (2A); so, just preface it with a number, which identifies the specific source.

If you received seeds from me labeled with a name ending with _1 or _2, that's from an outmoded system. Feel free to correct the names; no matter whether they end with _1 or _2, that should be changed to -A. So, if it says Insurance_1 or Insurance_2, it should become Insurance-A. Picnic_1 and Picnic_2 should become Picnic-A (not Picnic_A, nor Picnic-B, nor Picnic_B). I was a little conflicted on what to label the seed packets at first; so, that's why they might have read _0 or _1 instead of just one thing. I didn't share seeds with vary many people, though. If you see seeds circulated under the names Insurance_1 or Picnic_1 or whatever, now you'll know what they're supposed to be called.

If you want to see this system in practice, look at my garden map on my 2022 growlog.

You may notice on the map that I'm working with these projects, this year, or in 2021 (so far):
* 5CGI_ (Goals: Selecting for more locules, more seeds, and less splitting; perhaps acclimating it to a certain tougher soil and its conditions. This is a fairly regular Galapagos Island line, but one of the ancestors came from five-locule fruit. Early, yellow/gold, prolific, all-season cherry tomato.)
* Bash_ (This is my Purple Calabash cross project, with Bash_A being an F2. I don't believe I saved seeds, so the next one grown would be Bash_A0, rather than Bash_B, Bash_B0, etc.)
* Broy_ (Broy_A, Broy_A0, and Broy_A1 are Brandy Boy F2s, grown from F2 seed I saved myself)
* Clad_ (Very similar to Pearler_, except it had a later maturity in 2020. In 2021, the plants might be smaller than those of Pearler_; this is the project for my second Napoli cross.)
* Gallop_ (This has round yellow/gold fruit; large cherry size; lots of seeds; tart and not sweet. I'm pretty sure Galapagos Island was one of the parents.)
* GGO_ (GGO_A was a Green Giant x Golden King of Siberia F1 grown in 2017.)
* Insurance_ (Select for flavor and the traits it already had in 2020: big pink fruit, very prolific; vigorous; cold-tolerant as a seedling; regular leaf. Insurance_A was a Mexican Yellow cross F3, with the father seeming to be a large pink beefsteak.)
* MatinaBush_ (This is a bushier Matina offtype that I discovered in 2019. It could be a mutant or a cross—plant A, from 2019, was probably an F1 cross, if it was a cross, since only one out of many seedlings was atypical in it's growth; a single cross-pollinated seed seems more common than only one F2+ being different. If I mentioned growing Matina in 2021, that's actually from the MatinaBush_ project before I realized the growth pattern was hereditary.)
* MKX_ (MKX_A was the F1 parent of Snacker_A. It was a Medovaya Kaplya cross F1, with red very sweet fruit, and symmetrical ovate fruit.)
* Morsel_ (Morsel_A F1 is my fourth Napoli cross. It's a large cherry plum/grape tomato with a good taste for snacking and salads. The seed it came from was saved in 2020. Morsel_B appears to have traits similar to Galapagos Island and Matt's Wild Cherry--rather than a regular Lycopersicon lycopersicum tomato; also, it seems much earlier and more vigorous than Morsel_A, and much less like Napoli; Morsel_B has longer internodes than Morsel_A.)
* Nax_ (This is the project for my third Napoli cross. It has roundish, ribbed fruit. The parent is probably my Purple Calabash cross F1 from 2020.)
* Nina_ (This is a variety that is being bred out of an Early Girl F1 with bonnieplants.com tags grown in 2014. Nina_A was an F3 or F4 grown in 2017, and was an RL plant--the most productive plant among it and its siblings.)
* Pearler_ (Select for production, taste, early maturity and larger fruit-size; parent was very prolific with maybe 5-6oz fruits; RL; red; mix between ovate and round; in 2021, some of the plants are looking quite big; this is the project for my first Napoli cross. I only saved seeds from Pearler_A in 2021, and am growing four plants from its seed in 2022. Pearler_A had the largest fruit of if and all its siblings, in 2021, and it felt healthy to eat; they looked like fat Roma tomatoes.)
* Picnic_ (Basically seeking to stabilize and select for general awesome things, like earlier fruit, more fruit, tastier fruit, and bigger fruit. Also, I'm interested in crosses with it. This is a certain Brandy Boy cross line. Picnic_A's parent was a multiflora, and that one's parent was extremely tasty; that one's parent was the F1.)
* Snacker_ (Snacker_A was a Medovaya Kaplya cross F2 grown in 2020 that happened to have mostly stable traits: PL, yellow fruit, round, large cherry; the F1 was a very sweet plum-shaped red tomato)
* v21_ (This was the project for my 2021 volunteer tomatoes.)
* wm21_ (This is the project for my 2021 watermelons.)

Formula:

[[TypeLetter+][yearNumber+]_+[sourceNumber]+]generationLetter[+siblingNumber[+generationLetter][+. . .]]

Example:
* p21_3A10F
* p+21+_+3+A+10+F
* p is for plant; 21 is for 2021; _ is just there to divide and indicate it's my own project; 3 means it's the fourth plant source (since we start with 0); you can figure out what A10F means.

Notes:
* Frittata Kitchen doesn't use this naming system, because due to being a sport (rather than a hybrid), it's probably not terribly unstable.

https://gardenerspath.com/plants/houseplants/christmas-cactus-roots/

So, back in the day, I loved making greeting cards with PrintMaster Plus for the Commodore 64. We would print them out on a dot matrix printer (black and white). Modern custom greeting cards are a lot different. I miss PrintMaster Plus, but it's basically back in the 1980s.

So, it hit me today that it would be easy to simulate something like PrintMaster Plus without a computer. I mean, all you need is a proper collection of stencils or stamps, and away you go.

The old PrintMaster Plus didn't use photographs (which are a hallmark of commercial greeting cards and modern custom greeting cards). They didn't have pre-set taglines. They had borders, and stamp-like pictures (not huge ones, and not with scenery and stuff). You could print them on regular paper, and just fold it. Most importantly, it guided you through a wizard, had you pick a border, maybe frames or patterns, the non-photo images, and the text, and whatever else (it didn't just have a list of cards that you picked between and changed the text or added your own photographs).

Anyway, it was fun. Some modern greeting card systems might be cool and fun, too, but they're pretty photograph-centric, and you tend to need special paper to print the stuff on. They don't tend to have cool customizable borders and things, either.

So, I got to thinking and realized that PrintMaster Plus basically looked like something that could be made entirely with stencils (or stamps). So, just get some cool border stencils, and graphic stencils, and alphabet stencils--and away you go. The possibilities are endless. No computer necessary. No printer necessary. You can even make your own frame stencils, border stencils, graphic stencils, and such.

I've always been a fan of stencils and stamps--but I've rarely, if ever, had any.

stencil_
stamp_
greeting_card
homemade_

https://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/10217-easy-holiday-sugar-cookies

This article talks about what they often used before baking soda and baking powder. Fascinating.

https://www.scientificamerican.com/article/vaccinating-mice-may-finally-slow-lyme-disease/

The above article is about research into vaccinating white-footed mice (via food--not needles) in order to lower the incidence of lyme disease. Not only does it protect the mice, but when infected ticks bite the vaccinated mice, the bacteria in the ticks is destroyed.

Apparently, the local governments aren't heading efforts against lyme disease; so, they're worried that even if this turns out to be super effective and doable, that we, as citizens, will have to head the efforts.

mouse_
vaccine_
bacteria_
lyme_disease

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2021/05/210526150210.htm